Anyone who makes horse riding a way of living knows how important the use of proper horse stall drapes can be during competitions or special shows. The stables are the place where this type of curtains are really valuable, since they truly make one stand out when it is a case. Most horse stall drapes are custom made wearing the personal data of the show participants in colors and models of their choice. Such “decorations” are usually embroidered, making horse stall drapes even more special and individualized. What are the materials such products are made of and what costs should one expect?

Most horse stall drapes are made of water repellent materials that remain unspoilt even in the worst weather conditions; hence, from a certain point of view they can offer protection against both rain and wind. Materials vary from nylon to special PVC coatings that allow easy cleansing and great durability; such horse stall drapes are meant to last for at least five years of continuous use. This would explain the generosity of manufacturers to provide long-term warranties that really convince the buyer of the reliability of the products. Prices often vary depending on how many material and color bindings you want for your horse stall drapes.

When purchasing horse stall drapes, it is good to learn something about resistance to sunshine, since you don’t want colors to lose their luster or the curtains to actually get scorched. Depending on the way you intend to use the horse stall drapes, you can have grommets added to their upper side to easily hang them at shows. Moreover, make sure that the zippers which create the pass-through area match the dimensions you have in mind for a specific activity. If you take the time to get a look on the Internet, you’ll also find lots of special offers and discounts for horse stall drapes.

First of all, ask for quotes from various businesses that manufacture horse stall drapes, but don’t forget to specify the dimensions and the type of embroidery you need. However, in order to face the tough competition on the market, it is very likely that you may get free embroidery or discounted prices for several types of horse stall drapes ordered. In case you can choose the fabric yourself, make sure you are familiar with all the durability and toughness features of the specific material. Under such circumstances, warranty won’t be too extended if the client is actively involved in the pre-manufacturing process.

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When lunging, remember to keep your horse on the fence, not into the middle of the circle with you. If he drifts in, point the whip or swing the rope at his shoulder to move him back out. Keep doing that until he does a few nice clean rounds staying in a circle. Stop him and praise and pet him. Once that is almost automatic, then change directions and work on the other side. So if you started on the left, switch to the right and work on that side.

What you will be doing on the right side is exactly what you were doing on the left side. And here’s some good news, in many instances once the horse has already learned what you want on one side, they may not take as long to train on the other side. Now, having said that, also note that many horses do have a good lead/side and a bad lead/side and it seems they have trouble with “getting it” on that bad side. You will be able to tell if this is the case with your horse once you have had the chance to work with both sides. This isn’t something to be discouraged about. It will just require a bit more patience on both your parts to work through it.

Once you have mastered the start, walk, and stop, add in the trot and move on to the canter/lope. To trot, raise the whip a couple of feet higher. Raise your shoulders and trot. If the horse doesn’t trot, cluck to him. If that does not work, crack the whip. Once in the trot (you and your horse – bet you didn’t think you’d need to be in such good shape did you?), maintain your body and whip position. The horse will keep trotting until you drop your arm/whip position and slow your trot to a walk.

For the canter, raise the whip a bit higher than for the trot and kiss to the horse. And yes, you will be running as well. The nice thing about this process, aside from the fact you will be in great shape when the two of you are done, is that the horse will have learned to listen to you and respond to body and voice commands. It’s always a very special feeling to see the end results of patient and loving training.

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Lunging in a circle, using the same body language horses use is natural to a horse, and they will easily see your intent. You will of course have spent time with your horse to get them familiar with the lunging routine, and what you are asking of them – whether it’s to go right or left, reverse, give face, give at the poll etc.

Once you have the body language aced, add voice commands to match the body language. You’ve already laid the foundation for them to understand what you are asking with your body, by combining a command with the body language, it’s easy for them to make the association between body and voice. You’re doing all the pre-preparatory work so that when you do saddle your horse, he can make the transition from ground body language and voice commands to the same language in the saddle.

Your body language and position are crucial when communicating with your horse. Once you are in the saddle, if your body language matches what you gave your horse on the ground, you will build confidence in your horse that you are a trustworthy leader and he will listen to you. Yes, it does happen that you get the occasional horse who figures they know better than you do. These ones you really need professional help with. But don’t be discouraged, you can still lunge them and teach them the basics.

But, we’re a little ahead of ourselves here, so back to the round pen to learn how to teach your horse to stop. As simple as it sounds, all you have to do is stop all forms of communication. Quit walking, lower your head, and softly say “Whoa!” If you want a nice stop, quiet and relaxed, you have to give your horse the right language to do that. If they don’t stop, keep on walking and try it again. They will get the idea so long as you have the patience. Bottom line is if you want a nice quiet, obedient and great horse, you have to be all those things yourself in addition to a great leader.

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So, you’ve done the sacking out with the saddle pad, and your horse is doing well. Next move on to a rope. Like the maxim that all horses should be sacked out, all horses need to be sacked out with a rope. Do not even think about getting on a horse without sacking them out with a rope all over their bodies. And all over in this case, means some places you’d likely not even think about. Such as the head, ears, rump, under the tail (yes, under the tail), around the legs, on the belly, the chest and the withers. As an extension to this lesson, you can also teach them to stand still when you have a rope tied to their feet so if they ever get caught in wire or something else, they will know to stand still.

Back to the sacking out with a rope. You do this because most of what you use to ride a horse has something on it that will bump, slap, slide down or get tangled in the legs and feet (long reins, cinches, etc). They need to learn a rope will not harm them to start with, and that anything else under their belly, tangled in their feet (like a saddle that has slipped under them) – is not a cause for a rodeo. Teach this lesson well, it may save your life and that of your horse.

Use a long soft cotton lead rope if you have one – if not – use something else. You just want to make sure not to hit the horse. When you first start using this rope, the horse may think you are asking him to move off. Just stop them and quietly start over. Start swinging it all over the place just like you did with the saddle pad. Work away from the body for him to get used to the movement. When he is ok with that, then start to throw it on the ground, over his body, under his legs, between his legs. Go slowly when doing this as some horses just flip out when they feel a rope under their belly or around their legs.

You might be at this awhile, but the patience will pay off in the long run. Once again, do not quit this lesson until the horse quietly stands while the rope is all over him. Then call it a successful day with praise and a rest.

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We’ve all heard this one before: “No foot, no horse.” How true. Farrier care is one of the most important aspects of caring for your horse, and usually not all that easy unfortunately.

We’ve all had them – the squirmers who snatch their feet away, kickers, wigglers, stompers, lazy leaning horses that are the bane of a farrier’s existence. Finding a good farrier is hard enough as it is, so you don’t want him to refuse to trim or shoe your horse because your equine is being a total idiot. Farriers are always busy and they don’t have the time to train your horse to pick up their feet and stand quietly. That is your job. So, train your horse to do this early and do it well. Yes, it can also be taught to older horses. Just don’t ask for too much too soon from them and it will all work out.

You need to understand some of the reasons a horse isn’t a happy camper about picking up his feet. A horse’s feet are used to run to safety. Holding his foot makes him feel vulnerable. It might be they have not even been shown properly how to lift their feet. He might have been handled badly in the past when having his feet picked up, or there may be a physical problem – like a sore foot.

Here’s how you start to teach a horse to pick his feet up and stand quietly. You start with small bits at a time, about 5 to 15 minutes twice a day should work. Having said that though, each horse is an individual so pace yourself accordingly.

Start in a safe place such as a round pen. Do not work with the horse tied for your safety and his. Start stroking his neck and work slowly down to the shoulder and then the leg. If he’s happy, you’re doing a good job. If he fidgets, just slowly remove your hand at the spot he started getting jumpy at, and start over again until he settles. Keep doing this until you touch the feet. If you can’t during the first session, it doesn’t matter. Just end things on a good note and try again another time. This same routine can be used with the back legs. Just remember, slow, easy and calm.

Once you get to the feet, try picking one up and holding it for a mere fraction of a second and releasing it before the horse takes it away and praise and reward them. Go on to another leg and so on. When you are first working with them you don’t want a long hold, you just want to be able to pick the foot up and put it down right away. This teaches the horse you will not harm him. Keep increasing the hold time over your sessions with the horse. Eventually, and who is in a rush here anyhow, you will have a horse that stands quietly for not only you, but the farrier. Trust is a major issue here, so treat your horse with respect and he will respond.

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When working with your horse make sure he has a halter and lead on, but keep him untied. Why? He needs to know that if things get too scary for him, he can leave. This reduces anxiety. If you tie a horse and introduce scary things, the only thing he learns is he can’t get away, not to not be afraid of the object. And chances are when first starting your sack out routine he will get panicky. So, tying up a horse and sacking out are counterproductive.

You can start your sack out with the saddle pad. Let your horse smell it first to see what it is before you start tossing it about. If most cases if they see the object first it helps them relax. With some horses, this upsets them. Gage what you need to do by the response of your horse.

Smelling all done, then start swinging the saddle pad all over the place and don’t worry if they side step at first. It’s natural. The pad should be moved around his body without touching the body at first – work where they can see the movement well. As they get more and more relaxed, move the pad in closer to the body until you can then rub the saddle pad all over them – necks, legs, belly, back end, chest, and head.

Even make sure you throw it on the ground so they get used to things being down there. This may take a few minutes or longer, depends on your horse. When you think he’s got this lesson aced, fling the saddle pad onto his back and see what happens. He may step a bit and then stand still. If so, great job! If he takes a fit, start from the beginning.

By the way, you need to work with the horse until he does quietly accept the saddle blanket on his back. Don’t quit at a point when they are jumpy or they will learn being jumpy gets them out of work and away from scary objects. So aim for the success of the saddle pad on their back and your horse standing quietly. Then you can call it a day as a reward.

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The relationship between man and horse is an enduring one. But dealing with animals is always easier and more enjoyable when you have empathy and understanding. To be able to relate to horses,you need to understand their pychology, in order to anticipate horses’reactions you have to understand how they think and why they behave in certain ways. A good understanding also builds confidence on both sides-human and equine.

When faced with a threatening situation, the horse’s nature is one of flight, and therefore its perspective on life is one of vulnerability rather than attack. As humans, how we react and feel in certain situations depends on our upbrining and experience. It is the same with horses, which is why careful early handling and training are so important.

We can never expect a horse to go against its natural instincts, that is, never to be frightened or wary – but with good training we can control these instincts and show the horse, in a positive way, that a particular situation or object need not be feared.

Horses are gregarious herd animals, welcoming the company of other horses, as well as other creature companions and humans. Even domesticated stable horses establish their own ‘pecking order’.

Either the stallion at the end of the row calls loudest when feed time is due or, as many top riders report, their retired star kicks the stable door demanding attention first when what it considers as ‘it’ rider walks into the stableyard in the morning.

It is widely known the horse responds best to praise and encouragement from its trainer or rider to overcome its natural flight instincts and not be dominated. ‘Breakin-in’, the term formerly associated with a youg horse’s first conditioning to carry a rider, has now commonly been replaced with terms such as ’starting’, which infer much less the idea of domination.

From the disabled child fearlessly enjoying the company of ponies as part of therapy to the most successful of international competitive combinations, a common bond – that of trust and empathy between rider and horse – is being developed.

The horse looks at its human contacts as part of its ‘herd’ in the herd hierarchy,the human rider and trainer’s intellectual capacities give him or her the upper hand. This is why the man/horse relationship has worked so well for several thousand years, and humans can control an animal with many times their own strengths and power.

Riders in their early lessons will often be told ‘Don’t be nervous’. Although at this stage the rider should be learning from an experienced horse and therefore should be able to relax, the fact that horses need reassurance and security is something to bear in mind and cultivate from the start of a riding career.

Word Count:
469

Summary:
The relationship between man and horse is an enduring one. But dealing with animals is always easier and more enjoyable when you have empathy and understanding. To be able to relate to horses,you need to understand their pychology, in order to anticipate horses’reactions you have to understand how they think and why they behave in certain ways

Keywords:
horse, horseback, horseback riding, horse riding, riding horse, horses, understanding horses, horse information, horse info, information about horses, info about horses

Article Body:
The relationship between man and horse is an enduring one. But dealing with animals is always easier and more enjoyable when you have empathy and understanding. To be able to relate to horses,you need to understand their pychology, in order to anticipate horses’reactions you have to understand how they think and why they behave in certain ways. A good understanding also builds confidence on both sides-human and equine.

When faced with a threatening situation, the horse’s nature is one of flight, and therefore its perspective on life is one of vulnerability rather than attack. As humans, how we react and feel in certain situations depends on our upbrining and experience. It is the same with horses, which is why careful early handling and training are so important.

We can never expect a horse to go against its natural instincts, that is, never to be frightened or wary – but with good training we can control these instincts and show the horse, in a positive way, that a particular situation or object need not be feared.

Horses are gregarious herd animals, welcoming the company of other horses, as well as other creature companions and humans. Even domesticated stable horses establish their own ‘pecking order’.

Either the stallion at the end of the row calls loudest when feed time is due or, as many top riders report, their retired star kicks the stable door demanding attention first when what it considers as ‘it’ rider walks into the stableyard in the morning.

It is widely known the horse responds best to praise and encouragement from its trainer or rider to overcome its natural flight instincts and not be dominated. ‘Breakin-in’, the term formerly associated with a youg horse’s first conditioning to carry a rider, has now commonly been replaced with terms such as ’starting’, which infer much less the idea of domination.

From the disabled child fearlessly enjoying the company of ponies as part of therapy to the most successful of international competitive combinations, a common bond – that of trust and empathy between rider and horse – is being developed.

The horse looks at its human contacts as part of its ‘herd’ in the herd hierarchy,the human rider and trainer’s intellectual capacities give him or her the upper hand. This is why the man/horse relationship has worked so well for several thousand years, and humans can control an animal with many times their own strengths and power.

Riders in their early lessons will often be told ‘Don’t be nervous’. Although at this stage the rider should be learning from an experienced horse and therefore should be able to relax, the fact that horses need reassurance and security is something to bear in mind and cultivate from the start of a riding career.

Article Written By J. Foley

http://horseback-riding.blogspot.com

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Reef really hard on the girth/cinch to tighten that saddle down right tight so it doesn’t slip? Not! How about doing one thing at a time first – like correctly positioning the saddle. Snug yes, tight no.

Horses girthed too tightly get cinchy and dislike being saddled. Really, it’s like wearing a girdle three sizes too small. How comfortable do you think you would be in that contraption? So if you do tighten it too much, chances are the horse will either reach around and bite you, blow or go down on their knees. So, a snug girth is the ticket, just about right in the horse’s book anyhow. Just remember to position the saddle properly and you shouldn’t have girth problems.

The saddle should rest solidly and be level on the horse’s back. Now, having said that, there are so many variations to horses backs, withers and rump and in saddles themselves, that this is sometimes a challenge. Anyhow, assuming you can level the saddle on the horse’s back, it should now be on/in the rider’s center of balance – just behind the horse’s natural balance point at a standstill. As the horse moves, engaging the hindquarters, his natural balance point (just behind and slightly above his elbow) moves back and under the rider as the horse rounds his back upward. Now horse, saddle and rider should be in balance.

Put your saddle pad or blanket over the withers and well forward. Now place the saddle over the withers and forward. Slide the saddle and pad backward until they settle into position, behind the withers and level on the back. This might seem like the saddle position is too far back. It is not.

The gullet of the saddle will be somewhat over the withers. The saddle will be level and the back of the saddle won’t be pressing into the loin area. The girth will not be immediately behind the elbow, but several inches behind the elbow instead. Hmmm, that sure sounds odd if you were taught otherwise doesn’t it?

If the saddle is too far forward, well over the withers, and the girth is directly behind the elbow, the movement of the horse’s shoulders is restricted. Stride and lateral action are adversely affected. Properly positioned, the saddle will not need to be tightly cinched, because it will stay in position naturally with only a snug cinching.

Once the saddle is on board, check the pad or saddle blanket and lift it up into the gullet so that at least two fingers slide easily between the withers and the saddle. If you’ve properly positioned the saddle, you won’t give your horse grief on his withers or loins.
You can spot problems from the ground if you just stand back and observe the tacked horse.

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Don’t really know what is in your horse feed in the bag? Join the growing crowd of horse people who are confused about what is really in their horse’s feed. However, having said that, it’s an easy problem to remedy with a bit of knowledge. Learn to read a feed-bag tag. Find out how much protein your horse needs and learn to balance feed protein and forage (out in the pasture) protein.

Your equine needs protein for development and repair of muscle, healthy skin, hair, and hooves, for milk production, reproduction and the maintenance of healthy red blood cells and bone. This does not include weight gain or energy.

Here’s an idea of the minimum daily crude protein requirements: mature idle horses 8.5%, mares in the last 90 days of pregnancy 11%, mares in lactation 14%, foals 18%, weanlings 16%, yearlings 13.5%, two-year-olds 10% and performance horses 10%.
The first nutrient listed on a feed-bag tag is crude protein, and you want it to be highly digestible. The best source of protein is soybean meal, because it’s rich in lysine and other amino acids, meaning high digestibility. However, soybean meal is expensive, so lower quality feeds use corn gluten meal, linseed meal, brewer’s grain and distiller’s grain. Hmmm, this means you get what you pay for, so beware.

Here’s how to figure out if you horse is getting its daily protein requirement. If your horse is eating 5 pounds of 10% crude protein grain and 15 pounds of grass hay tested at 6% crude protein, do the math. Five pounds of grain times 10% equals 50; 15 pounds of hay times 6% equals 90. Add those together and you get 140 units of protein per day. Now add the total weight of the feed per day, 5 pounds and 15 pounds and you get 20 pounds per day. Divide the feed weight into the protein units (20 divided into 140) and you get 7% protein in the horse’s diet. Great, but what if your horse needs 10% protein per day?

If your horse needs more protein, then your option is to feed a higher protein forage or higher protein grain. The preferred option is feeding a higher crude protein forage. Do not feed more protein than your horse needs. It’s a waste of money and feeding excess protein can cause health problems. Horses purge their systems of excessive protein by drinking large amounts of water, which can result in kidney problems.

When in doubt about feed, consult your Veterinarian.

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Top 10 Things to do BEFORE you go horse shopping

Buying a horse is a big commitment in both time and money. The emotional energy spent is a large factor as well. With so many horses for sale, how do you choose?

If you buy a horse before you lay the correct groundwork, you run the risk of coming home with one that isn’t suitable for you. At the worst, he could be dangerous and at best, you could easily spend a thousand dollars or more to get professional trainer to correct the problems.

Make a plan before you look at horses for sale and do these 10 basic steps first.

1. Take riding lessons for at least six months.

Horse riding lessons will teach you the basics of control and the foundation for correct horsemanship. In addition to learning to ride a horse, you’ll also learn how to safely groom and handle one. You’ll establish a relationship with a professional horse person in your area who knows you and who you can turn to for help if you need it.

2. Decide on the type of riding you want to do.

There are many types of horse riding styles. The most basic are Western or English. Then you can break down those two styles into many subcategories. You don’t have to make one choice exclusive of all others. Many people enjoy riding both styles and compete in both.

Decide if you want a horse to trail ride and just enjoy having him or if you want to be competitive and show.

3. Horse’s personality

The type of personality you want for your horse depends a lot on the type of riding you want to do and also your personality. Some riders want a horse with a big engine and a lot of fire. Others like a horse to be quiet and laid back.

It’s usually easier to get the laid back one to rev his engine than to get a hot horse to relax.

4. Decide on what breed of horse you most want.

Once you’ve decided on the type of riding you’re interested in and the type of personality you want your horse to have, the breed choice will become easier. Some breeds are associated with certain types of riding. For instance, a Thoroughbred or Warmblood breed are usually thought of for the Hunter/Jumper circuit or dressage. In the past, the Quarter Horse, Appaloosas and Paints were thought of for Western riding. Today, these breeds can successfully compete at all levels with the more traditional hunter type horse.

If you want a very smooth ride, look at the gaited breeds such as Missouri Foxtrotters, Tennessee Walkers or Paso Finos.

5. Decide on how big a horse you need.

If you’re looking for a horse for a child, buy a pony that your child can groom and handle now. A too big horse is intimidating for a young child to deal with.

If you’re looking for one for yourself, consider the type of riding you want to do. Western styles of riding do not require a large horse and most of the stock type horses can carry a large adult even if the horse is 15 hands or smaller.

If you want to show in hunter/jumper classes, a 16+ hand horse is necessary to be competitive. However, if your plans are to learn to jump and go to small local shows, you’ll save money by buying a smaller horse.

6. Decide on the gender of the horse.

A gelding or a mare should be your only consideration. A stallion is difficult to handle and can be downright dangerous even if you are a very experienced rider. He isn’t suitable unless you’re in the breeding business.

Geldings make great riding horses and companions. Preferably he was gelded before his second birthday so that he never learned stallion behavior.

Mares sometimes get a bad rap for being difficult every time she comes into heat. Perhaps some are, but there are many wonderful mares with very stable personalities.

7. Decide where you will keep your horse.

If you plan to board, check out several boarding stables. Your first choice is probably the barn where you’ve been taking riding lessons. Look at some others to have for back-up choices and as a general comparison.

If you plan to keep your horse on your own property, be sure to have safe fencing, a solid barn and know your time schedule will allow you to feed your horse at least twice a day – every day – rain or shine. Find out any local and state liability laws for a horse property before you bring your new horse home.

8. Figure how much you can afford for the initial price of a horse.

The original purchase price of a horse is a large upfront expense. Obviously, the more you can afford to spend on a horse, the more choices you’ll have to look at when shopping. If you have this money saved up in advance, you’ll have better leverage with a seller. If you have to buy your horse on payments, you’ll limit your bargaining power and choices because many sellers won’t want to take payments.

9. Figure out your monthly expenses.

Monthly expenses include board, lessons and supplements if you keep your horse at a boarding stable. If you keep your horse at home, you’ll be buying feed, hay and stall bedding instead of a board bill.

There are reoccurring expenses that don’t come every month but still need to be added up for a year’s cost and averaged as a monthly expense. These include farrier visits, worming, vaccinations and vet care such as floating teeth and a yearly Coggins test.

10. Tack and Supplies

Purchase the basic supplies before you get your horse so that you’ll be all set when you bring him home. Brushes, shampoo, liniment, leg wraps, buckets and a first aid kit are a good start on supplies to have ready.

An all purpose headstall and a few bits, saddle pads, a saddle, halter and a long lead rope with a stout snap are your basic tack supplies.

If you follow these 10 steps before you begin horse shopping, you’ll have a clear idea of the horse that will be the best choice for you when you do begin your search.

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